I'll pick up where I left off:
Beijing
International Airport. I'm getting the feeling that all airports are
alike, psuedo-European and industrial; on the inside, Beijing International
Airport is exactly the same as Ben-Gurion or Atatürk, the only difference being
the faces that scrutinize you over the counter. I must admit that given China's
image in western journalism I've felt somewhat apprehensive at this
point, but the officials there are as efficient and courteous (if not more so)
than any other government agency I've ever dealt with. Oddly enough I was
required to fill in customs and health statements before I was allowed in the
country. I never could figure it out: why would anyone bother asking you a
question such as "do you carry a horrific, easily contractible disease?" -
presumably if I were I wouldn't be travelling in the first place, and if I
were travelling with a contagion for some
clandestine reason I certainly wouldn't tell anyone about it. I had a
vague and apparently misplaced belief that a non-democratic government would be
less prone to pointless bureaucracy. Ever the optimist.
The difference between China and, well, everywhere else I've been to up
until that point, became pronounced the minute I stepped out of the airport
gate. There are a
lot of people in China. As obvious as that may be
when looking at the numbers (approximately 1.3 billion according to the
CIA
factbook), it only really becomes evident when you actually walk the streets
of Beijing. Israel is a very small country, both in size and in population (6.2
million, same source) and the difference is staggering. I was so overwhelmed at
the sheer volume of people moving about that, after getting out of their way, I
had to simply sit down and shake it off. The previous picture hardly does
it justice.
I then took a shuttle to Jianguomen, which I was told was near the hotel I
was to stay in. This proved to be both a fascinating experience and a really bad
idea: fascinating because I got to experience a little slice of Beijing
immediately after landing, and because it forced me to learn new ways to
communicate. The average resident of Beijing (including bus and taxi drivers)
does not speak a word of English. This is also why taking a shuttle bus was a
very bad idea. Aside from it being very small (unlike myself and my luggage) and
without any air conditioning (it was 35°C outside!), it also dropped me in what
I then thought was the middle of nowhere, with no map and hardly any way of
asking for directions. I walked around a bit but was soon exhausted, what with
the heat, the lingering tiredness from the flight and the bloody luggage; I
eventually stopped a taxi and had it drop me off at the hotel, which turned out
to be about 10 minutes' walk away from where the shuttle dropped me off. This
would be a good time to mention that taxis in Beijing are quite cheap; a short
ride costs 10 RMB (about $1.25 US), and even an hour-long trip to the
airport cost 100 RMB including toll. That is amazingly cheap compared to Israel
-- I'm wondering if this has anything to do with the Chinese government
subsidizing the prices in preperation for the 2008 olympics.
Speaking of the olympics, I'm still awed by the sheer scale of the
modifications, reconstruction and improvement efforts in Beijing. The Chinese
government evidently takes the olympic games very seriously from a public
relations standpoint, and is sparing no expense in preparation. I imagine that
if the 2008 olympics were to take place in Israel, the same efforts on a much
smaller scale would probably begin a few months before the games.
Jianguo Hotel
lobby
My next stop was the Jianguo Hotel
Beijing. Located two seconds from the Yonganli subway station and ten
minutes (by subway) from Tiananmen Square, the hotel is pretty much a standard
5-star European hotel, with the exception of a magnificent artificial
river-garden running smack in the middle of it. Although not bad by any means, I
was somewhat disappointed at how artificially European the hotel is; everything
from the large, golden lobby, the wooden architecture in the guest rooms, the
oversized dining room with its inevitably ridiculous decor ("old
masters"-inspired paintings and even a full-size harp in the corner!) and
finally the diner which serves American-style food (to which I'm not partial
even at the best of times). I mean, this is China! Where is the Chinese
decor?
Jianguo Hotel guest
room
Anyway, having found myself fully checked into the hotel and post-shower by
16:00 (local time) I had several hours to burn until the business
associates I was to rendezvous with were slated to arrive. I spent a couple
of hours doing some work and also finishing up the first post on the trip; this
still left me with about three hours before said associates arrive. I sent the
suit to be professionally ironed (I can certainly use an iron, but not nearly as
well as a professional) and then elected to happily spend the next two hours
getting an oil massage. Having read some books that discuss Chinese culture
- albeit from a fiction standpoint - I should've realized Chinese
pragmatism extends to sex just as it does to business, but I was
ill-prepared for the barrage of overt questions and propositions. It appears
that the Chinese business culture comprises chiefly of two principles: you'd
better haggle and everything is for sale. European puritanism
aside, I wasn't interested and settled for a simple massage with no added
value; suffice to say that it was the best massage I've ever had, so
evidently there were no hard feelings on the hostess' part (Chinese
pragmatism in action?).
I spent the rest of the evening and the next morning's breakfast in pleasant
conversation with our business associates. The next morning we went to the
business meeting which was the original purpose of this trip; for obvious
reasons I won't go into details. We then proceeded to a restaurant situated very
close to where the meeting took place; I'd offer a name or address, except that
I can't read Chinese and absolutely none of the restaurant's staff could speak
English. Ironically this was never a hindrance - we made do with a combination
of sign language and the pictures in the menu. We were served several dishes
(pictured on the right); the dish nearest the rice bowl was quite possibly the
best dish I've ever had. It was a mixture of hot green and red peppers with
bacon (I think it was bacon. I couldn't really ask and would rather not
know) stir-fried in some sort of soy-based sauce; the combination was utterly
staggering, and I sincerely hope to find a dish worthy of this one at some point
in my life. The other dishes were also terrific: chicken in some sort of sweet
thick sauce, and a mix of vegetables with goose and bacon (the dish nearest the
camera). All of this along with rice and lots of juice meant that I was soon
completely satisfied, and then came the really pleasant surprise: although all
three of us were unable to tackle even half the food, the total cost of the meal
was less than 200 RMB (about $25). I've had meals that cost as much for
just myself in Israel, and were certainly not up to this quality!
It was time to bid farewell to my pleasant companions who had to catch an
early flight, and also about time to get out of the damned business suit (it was
stifling hot!) and find something to do for the next few hours (it was about
13:00 at this point, and I only had to be at the airport around 22:00...). I'll
blog about what I did during that time in the next (and final)
post.